Surfing - A deadly sport

Being the girl that I am, I decided to go surfing here in La Jolla :) I went out about two weeks ago and it was a pretty flat day so I just learned how to balance really well sitting on my surf board waiting for the waves that I never saw. Some kid came and joined me and told me that a place called something like earth, wind, and sea was the best place to go but that the guys there were a bad word and don't let people surf with them. Of course I took this advice into no regard and headed out to the waves this morning to check it out.

The miracle is that I'm still alive to tell the story, the waves were brutal! I paddled out there at an angle so I never had to hit the waves full on and all I saw were a bunch of old surf guys who were probably in the 40's or 50's who didn't seem so scary to me. When I came paddling out, one of them said to all of the others to watch their language and then he told me that I didn't have to worry about any of the other guys because they were all homosexual except for him.

So I attempted to ride the waves... The waves won. If you have ever been with me to a theme park, you know that I scream a lot. Me screaming at a theme park is nothing compared to what I let out today. I was scared out of my mind, and everybody knew it! The waves were huge and once I sort of rode some in, I would look behind me and see massive waves breaking above my head and have no clue what to do because they were so big! Was I supposed to ride them as they were breaking like I could do in Taiwan or was I supposed to go through them? The way they broke so high, it was impossible to go under them because once you start going through, the wave is already in washing machine effect so you get thrown around like crazy. All of the older men were laughing and shacking their heads and then they told me that this was pretty much as hard is it gets and that it was a great learning place because it kicks your trash - and let me tell you, my trash got a good kicking!

As I was leaving, they told me "you know, you really got in our way today and we would have thrown you out but you were cute enough that we let you stay around." Well, at least I know that although I wasn't a good surfer, I can be reassured to know that a bunch of surf guys in their 40's and 50's thought I was cute.

Here is a pic that I pulled off of the internet from the place I went and these are probably actually some of the guys that I was out there with. They all looked pretty much like this and they are the regular local morning going group. It was a fun day and a fun adventure!